Hats can sometimes be a tricky accessory for men. They were once so normal and everyday, and now seem to have disappeared to almost extinction. Women have managed to maintain a seemingly more daily use for them thanks to the fashion world, but for men it is rare that he has more than a few beat-up baseball caps. However, hats are making a style return and so we wanted to give a little background on some options available to stylish men in London. Important to remember is that not all hats suit everyone. The best route to take is ‘leave it to the professionals’ and seek advice as to which style of hat best suits your face and head as sadly, all hats are not for everyone.
There are three iconic versions of hats, which we will cover in a different posting: the Bowler (around £300), the Top hat (around £350) and the Boater (around £100-150).
Beyond these three very traditional hats, there are the everyday options that are more casual and can be worn for day to day use; the Homburg, the Fedora, the Trilby and of course that Sinatra classic, the Pork Pie. These hats are all made of felt. Felt is a material that is not woven but produced by compressing woolen fibers or originally rabbit fur.
The Homburg is the dressiest of these hats and a more rigid version of a Trilby. It is typically made from felt and has a silk brim. It is popularly known as the ‘Anthony Eden’ as the politician of this name famously wore the style often in the 1930s. This hat is best worn with a suit and overcoat or trench as it is more formal and of course, to be removed while inside. Both Lock & Co Hatters of St. James Street in Mayfair and Christy and Co produce excellent choices starting from £210.
A Fedora and Trilby are very similar hats for all intents and purposes. Both made of felt, both with a pinched crown, although the pinched effect can come in many varied guises, and both with a Grosgrain ribbon band around the head. The defining difference however is that he brim on the Trilby is slightly narrower and rolled upwards around the back of the head. Both hats have come and gone from fashion within the last century where they have at times been popular in Europe, the Americas and Asia. As far as hats go, they are perhaps the best option for a man that wants to experiment and stretch his hat wearing skills.
Particularly with the popularity of shows like ‘Mad Men’ and ‘White Collar’, where the styles of the main characters embrace these hats, they are starting to appear again on the streets atop stylish men heads everywhere. When looking to shop for a Fedora (£199) or Trilby (starting from £165) you will probably have the most luck visiting Lock and Co. Hatters. Alternatively you could search out the men hat departments at Harrods or Liberty. At Harrods you will find a wide selection of Borsalino branded hats.
Borsalino (£295) is an Italian hat-maker that began production in 1850 and has since made hats of superior quality. They produce all manner of hats and have come to acquire a more fashion conscious twist to their brand than other hatters who still make hats of the same quality. They are particularly well know for their Trilby styles. At Liberty you will find an extensive selection of hats mostly from New York Hat Company, which of course include their versions of both Trilby’s and Fedoras. One of the greatest things about a Trilby is that you can now often find foldable, or roll-able versions you can roll into a tube and take with you on travels around the world, also available at Lock and Co. (£185)
Living in England, men, both style conscious and through purely traditional reasons, wear flat caps, which sell around £105. Usually made of tweed, to match their shooting suits, flat caps have also become popular thanks to celebrity endorsements from men like Guy Ritchie who is rarely seen without a flat cap. Originally more a sporting cap worn for countryside sports, they are now in abundance in the city as well with companies like Kangol make felt versions along side the more traditional companies who still make them in Tweed. You can even order them bespoke from Savile Houses like Norton and Sons.
Continuing the more casual vein of hats, we might even condone the sporadic use of a baseball cap. However at Purple Eagle, we prefer a discreet unbranded version like the Zermatt (£85) from Lock and Co Hatters. Its made in either black or navy cashmere and better yet, it has a concealed ear warmer flap that can be let down for the coldest times of the winter. If you are looking for something simple like this but not as warm for wear during the summer, we suggest again a plain black, navy, white or moderate color cotton baseball cap which you can either order online or found in sporting good stores like Lillywhites. Again, Lock and Co offers the Rimini (£55), an all-Linen baseball cap available in 4 colors.
The final hat that must be mentioned is your classic Panama hat (£199). True Panama hats, woven in the villages of Equador, are made of woven leaves from the Paja Toquillo straw palm. They have been seen on the heads of men and women around the world and while the traditional version is commonly made of this special straw, you can now find them in linen, cotton, seagrass or even coconut husk. All the companies we have mentioned thus far offer versions and various styles of a Panama. Montecristi is a manufacturer who produces a couple options sold through Lock and Co. Hatters for £695.
Starting with hats can be tricky, when first branching out beyond baseball caps, but there is no reason not to. If you do not want to spend a huge amount, but would like to, try adding hats to your outfits you can check out Pachacuti. The press loved the narrow brim Grey felt fedora with petrol band (£32.90) and the Classic Fedora with Mink band. This hat varies in price depending upon the grade of Panama – non-rollable grade 2 is £34.50 and a Rollable Brisa Grade 8 is £61, with prices rising through the grades up to around £220. Any of the hats on their website which are grade 8 and above are rollable, as are any Panamas in twisted weave or crochet as this gives more flexibility without the need for a finer grade.
For the younger, fashion-concious man we have also seen a great hat made by Bernstock Spears at Dover Street Market in Dover Street. It is a Trilby and comes in navy and Bordeaux in 100% wool with a mohair brim. (£120).
Wearing a hat, perhaps at a jaunty angle, will give you a little boost in your step and add a swagger to your walk. And that’s definitely a good thing.
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